How to Convert HEIC to JPG

You take a photo on an iPhone, send it to someone on Windows, and they reply that they cannot open it. Or a website refuses the attachment. Or the office printer stares blankly at it. The photo itself is fine — it is just in HEIC, the format iPhones have used by default since iOS 11, and half the world still does not speak it. Converting it to JPG ends the argument: JPG opens everywhere, on everything, and has done for decades.

Below is the exact flow in the free HEIC to JPG Converter. Conversion happens entirely in your browser, so your photos are never uploaded — which matters more than usual here, since the photos people convert tend to be personal ones: IDs, documents, family pictures.

What You Need Before You Start

Get these ready first, so you are not stopping halfway to hunt for a file:

• Your HEIC photos — .heic or .heif files, each under 100 MB. You can convert up to 5 at once, so if you have a small batch, grab them all in one go rather than doing five separate trips.
• A decision on quality — the page opens on High (92%), which the tool itself describes as visually identical to the original for almost every photo. Medium (80%) makes smaller files; Maximum (100%) is for when fidelity matters most. If you are unsure, stay on High.
• A reason to pick JPG or PNG — JPG for sharing, uploading, and printing, which is what most people are here for. PNG only if you need lossless output, for example graphics with text, and are happy with a larger file.
• Your originals kept somewhere safe — the converter exports the main still image. Live Photo motion, depth maps, and burst sequences have no JPG equivalent and do not survive the trip, so do not treat the JPG as a replacement for the original if those extras matter to you.

How to Convert HEIC to JPG, Step by Step

Step 1: Add your photos

Open the HEIC to JPG Converter and drop your photos onto the dropzone, or click it to pick them from your device. Copied one already? Ctrl+V pastes it straight in. The tool accepts .heic and .heif alike — in practice they are the same thing from an iPhone — and it takes up to 5 files in one batch. They convert one after another, and each photo gets its own download link when it is done, so you are not stuck waiting for a single combined bundle.

↗ Got a stubborn HEIC sitting in your downloads? Open HEIC to JPG in a new tab and drop it in — the rest of this guide follows the page from there.

Step 2: Choose quality and format

Before you convert, set the two menus. Quality offers High (92%), Medium (80%), and Maximum (100%). For nearly everything — sending to a friend, attaching to an email, printing at normal sizes — High (92%) is the sweet spot, and it is where the page starts. Drop to Medium (80%) if the file still needs to be smaller for an upload limit; go to Maximum (100%) only when you are archiving and do not mind the extra size. Then check Format: JPG for maximum compatibility, PNG if you specifically need lossless. Changing these after converting means converting again, so set them now.

↗ Quality is a thirty-second decision that saves a redo — open HEIC to JPG in a new tab and set Quality and Format before you hit Convert.

Step 3: Convert

Click Convert to JPG. The whole process usually takes a few seconds per photo, even for large ones, because the work is just decoding the HEIC and re-encoding it as JPG on your own device — no upload, no server queue. If you added a batch of 5, they run one after another rather than all at once, so the first download link can appear while the later photos are still converting. A useful check the tool itself suggests: nothing about this needs the network once the page has loaded, apart from a one-time library download, so a slow connection is no excuse to put the job off.

↗ Batch or single photo, the button is the same — open HEIC to JPG in a new tab, load your photos, and hit Convert to JPG.

Step 4: Download each JPG and check it

When a photo finishes, its own download link appears — click it and save the JPG. With a batch, download each one as it appears rather than waiting for all five; the links are per photo, not a single package. Then open one JPG and look at it properly before you send it anywhere: check it opens on the device or app that refused the HEIC in the first place, and check the framing is the still you expected. If you converted a Live Photo, remember you are getting the main still only — the motion part stays behind with the original.

↗ Time to see the result on the other side — open HEIC to JPG in a new tab, convert, and open the downloaded JPG in whatever app rejected the original.

Which Quality Setting Should You Choose?

Short version: High (92%) for almost everything. Longer version, by job:

• Medium (80%) — when an upload form or attachment limit is still fighting you after conversion, and the photo is only going to be viewed on a screen.
• High (92%) — the default and the honest all-rounder. The tool's own wording is that the difference from the original is invisible in normal viewing, and that matches what you will see.
• Maximum (100%) — archiving, or photos you plan to edit further. Larger files, but you are not stacking another lossy step on top of an already-edited image later.

One thing worth knowing: HEIC is already a lossy format, so this conversion is one lossy step to another. At 92% or above you would need to zoom to 400% and compare pixel by pixel to spot a change, which is nobody's idea of looking at a photo.

Common Problems and Fixes

• File refused on upload? The limit is 100 MB per photo. Most iPhone photos are far below that, so a refusal usually means the file is not actually a photo — double-check the extension is .heic or .heif.
• JPG bigger than the HEIC? Expected. Expect roughly 1.5 to 2 times the size; JPG simply compresses less efficiently than HEIC.
• Live Photo motion gone? Not a bug. JPG has no equivalent for Live Photo motion, depth maps, or burst sequences — only the main still converts. Keep the original HEIC if you want those.
• Recipient still cannot open it? Make sure you sent the downloaded JPG, not the original HEIC — the two files sit side by side in your downloads and look similar at a glance.
• Need a sixth photo? The batch cap is 5. Convert the first five, download them, then add the next batch.
• Want lossless instead? Switch Format to PNG before converting. The file will be larger, but no quality is discarded in the re-encode.

That is really all there is to it: add the photos, leave quality on High unless you have a reason not to, convert, download each JPG. The annoying part of HEIC was never the photo — it was the format mismatch — and once the JPG exists, that mismatch is gone for good. Keep the originals, send the JPGs, and the next time someone says they cannot open your photo, you will already know the fix takes about ten seconds.